Tour du Beaufortain

The official starting point of the trek is right in front of the church, over the bridge that crosses the stream at an elevation of 580 m. 

From the church, take the path heading west, climbing behind a local house and continuing almost level. Then turn left onto a dirt road, and later right until you reach a cabin. Cross another dirt road and continue along the trail that runs above an embankment toward the west. After passing a small roadside shrine, the slope becomes steeper until you emerge into the open meadows surrounding the tiny hamlet of Champ-Gilbert. 

From here, climb about 500 metres until you reach the road leading to the Col de la Forclaz mountain pass. If you are short on time or arrived in Albertville later in the day by train, you can ask a taxi driver to drop you off near this point (45.724415, 6.448624) to skip a significant portion of the steep ascent on the first day. 

Continue to a trail junction and head north toward a spot called Sous Varzéron, at an elevation of 1,480 m. There is a small unmanned cabin here and a spring about 40 m further along the path, which may be dry in the height of summer or after a drought. 

If you arrive late, you can stop and spend the night here. There is space for about two or three tents, and the cabin can accommodate around four people. From here, the trail continues northeast, with the impressive Aravis mountain range opening up to your left. 

Continue to a clearing called Croix de Varzéron at 1,526 m. Follow the beautiful forest path northeast for another 3 km until you reach the alpine café-restaurant La Palette. From this point, you will see the Mont Blanc massif in all its glory for the first time. It is a great place to stop for a cold drink and a snack, though there is no tap water available. 

From here, continue along the forested path descending toward Cernix, and eventually you will reach the refuge de Lachat, your accommodation for the night. Those who prefer wild camping instead of paying the small fee requested by the refuge can continue a few hundred meters further to the small lake above it. There you will find picnic tables, plenty of great spots to pitch a tent, as well as public restrooms and running water.

Walk a few meters to the right along the road and look for the trail climbing left toward the summit of Chard du Beurre. The trail reaches a sharp bend where you should turn right and climb along the ridge. The effort is well rewarded with stunning views as you approach about 200 meters below the summit itself, which rises to 1,889 m. 

From here, begin a gentle descent southeast toward the mountain pass Col de la Lézette, then continue east along the ridge path to the next pass, Col de la Légette. Pay attention here, the names are similar but refer to different places. 

Continue northeast, climbing along the ridge until you reach several picturesque shepherds’ huts. Take in the scenery that opens up here, a magnificent section of the hike where you can see three of the four famous dams of the Beaufortain region: Saint-Guérin, Roselend, and Girotte, just below Mont Clocher overlooking the Hauteluce valley. 

If you look down into the valley, you may spot a distinctive church tower topped with onion-shaped domes typical of the French Alps. After passing the cross of Mont Clocher, the route continues to Chalet de la Péchette, then descends gently toward Chalet de Bellastat. 

Continue northeast until you reach the mountain pass Col de Véry, located right on the border between the Savoie and Haute-Savoie departments. Turn right toward the Col de la Croix de Pierre, where an impressive stone cross stands at 1,973 m. 

South of the pass, take the trail that traverses the slope at the foot of the rocky ridge of the Aiguille Croche. The path passes above a secluded hut, descends into a stream valley, crosses it, and continues downhill to about 1,800 m. From there, begin another climb through green alder shrubs to skirt a rocky spur. 

After crossing another stream and passing under a ski lift, you will rejoin a dirt road, where you should turn right. A walk of about 600 meters brings you to the Col du Joly at 1,989 m. This is a perfect spot for a coffee or lunch break, as the pass serves as a vast natural terrace facing the majestic Mont Blanc range. 

To end the day, descend east along a wide track for about one kilometer until you see a junction with a path to the right near Lac de Roselette. Follow the path around the small, pastoral lake and continue until you reach your final destination for the day, Auberge de la Roselette, at 1,871 m, directly facing Mont Blanc.

Here the Tour du Mont Blanc trail joins in, and the atmosphere changes dramatically, with many more hikers around. On busy days, do not be surprised if you have to wait in line to pass through the narrower sections of the path. From here, descend on the left-hand trail, which becomes wider. After a few bends, you will reach a junction with the GR5 trail, which crosses the French Alps from north to south and ends in Nice on the Mediterranean coast. You can turn left here for coffee or breakfast at Chalet de la Balme at 1,706 m, an excellent place to take a break. 

Continue south, and after two sharp bends you will arrive at the confluence of streams flowing from the Lacs Jovet. Cross the small plain and begin climbing southwest toward Plan des Dames. Along the way, you will see a large cairn with a small sign. Legend has it that an English lady and her maid who perished in a terrible storm, are buried here. According to local tradition, to avoid bad luck on the road ahead, every hiker should add a stone to the cairn, so do not forget to place one of your own. 

From this point begins one of the major ascents of the Tour du Mont Blanc. You will likely be surrounded by groups of hikers of varying fitness levels, all catching their breath. 

Eventually, you will reach the Col du Bonhomme at 2,329 m. The view that opens up here is truly exceptional: to the left rise the Aiguilles de la Pennaz, and to the right the “Bonhomme Rock” (bonhomme simply means “fellow” in French), along with the peaks of Mont Tondu and the Dômes de Miage, part of the Mont Blanc range. Notice the double-headed rock overlooking the pass on the left, which tradition calls “the Good Man and the Good Woman” (Bonhomme and Bonne Femme). 

 From the pass, continue traversing southeast. Watch your step carefully, as even in summer you may need to cross patches of snow. Ahead of you rise the peaks of the Beaufortain region, and far below in the valley you can spot the Barrage de la Gittaz dam. 

Keep climbing until you reach a clear boundary stone marking the entrance to the Contamines Nature Reserve, where the border between the Savoie and Haute-Savoie regions also runs. At this point, if you still have energy and the weather offers good visibility, you can make a short out-and-back detour to the summit of Tête Nord des Fours at 2,756 m for a breathtaking 360-degree panorama, complete with an orientation table. If your legs are already tired, simply descend to the right on the trail leading directly to your accommodation for the night, Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme at 2,433 m.

If you are hiking early in the season and the trail markings are still covered with snow, simply aim for the second power pole. Be careful not to follow footprints in the snow that descend directly into the valley below, as those belong to hikers on the GR5 route. If you are uncertain, do not hesitate to ask the hut staff before setting out. 

Descend southeast, crossing small streams, then turn south along the left bank of the Raja stream. Along the way, you will pass the shepherds’ huts of Plan Varraro. At an elevation of 2,013 m, continue descending to the Chalets de la Raja at 1,796 m. Just below the huts, cross the stream by a bridge and follow a gentle path until you reach a place called “Les Murs.” 

From this point, continue on a comfortable dirt road that eventually joins the D902 road. Walk west along the road for about one kilometer. Take note, this is where you need to make a responsible decision. If the weather is bad, with heavy fog or rain, do not continue on the high route. Instead, stay on the road and walk safely to the Refuge du Plan de la Lai. The main route is more alpine and demanding, passing through a shaded valley where snow melts later in the season, so it is recommended only in good weather. 

If the sun is shining, leave the road and climb the dirt track toward the farm huts of La Fauge, continuing up to the upper hut at 1,840 m. From here, the walk becomes less of a “marked trail” and more of a cross-country route heading southwest. You are now entering the heart of the majestic Combe de la Neuva valley. Stay on the right bank of the stream. Continue until you reach a junction with a dirt road coming from the Cormet de Roselend pass, where you will see a water pumping station at 1,999 m. This is the last point where you can turn back if the weather suddenly changes. 

Keep climbing on the right bank toward the southwest, with the jagged ridge of the Aiguille de la Nova serving as your landmark and visual guide. Ascend gradually, cross a small tributary, and pass several hills and plateaus until you reach a spot above two small ponds. 

From here, the trail leaves the valley floor and begins to climb into the natural cirque formed between the impressive peaks of Aiguille du Grand Fond, Brèche de Parozan, and Pointe de Presset. The easy path gives way to boulders and large rocks that you must navigate carefully, following the yellow-red trail markings and cairns. 

As you approach the saddle, the climb becomes noticeably steeper, winding upward in a series of sharp switchbacks. Early in the season, snow patches often remain on the upper slopes, and these sections should be crossed carefully and with proper attention to footing.

The effort is fully rewarded upon reaching the Col du Grand Fond at 2,671 metres, the highest point of the trek and one of its defining moments. This narrow mountain pass opens onto an extraordinary panoramic view in every direction.

To the east rise the Italian side of the Mont Blanc massif and the dramatic silhouette of Aiguille de Peuterey. To the southwest, far below, lies the deep blue Lac de Presset, overlooked by the unmistakable spire of Pierra Menta, one of the most iconic climbing peaks in the Alps. Beyond it, the distant glaciers of the Vanoise range complete the landscape.

From the pass, descend carefully on a steep trail of scree and, depending on the season, lingering snow. The route curves around the left side of Lac de Presset before reaching Refuge de Presset at 2,514 metres.

Widely considered one of the most beautifully designed mountain huts in the French Alps, the refuge offers an unforgettable setting for the evening. With the lake, glaciers, and surrounding peaks glowing in the evening light, it is the perfect place to end the day over a warm Savoyard meal.

From here, follow the trail southwest until you reach the mountain pass Col du Bresson at 2,469 metres. The view from this pass is extensive and striking. To the south, the central peaks of the Vanoise National Park come into view, including Péclet-Polset, Dôme de Chasseforêt, Grand Bec, Grande Casse, Bellecôte, and Mont Pourri.

The descent begins heading northwest, facing toward Lac de Roselend. In sections where the trail passes between large boulders, it is important to stay on the official orange-yellow markings to avoid side paths used by livestock.

At the bottom of the descent, you reach a small shelter and the remains of the old Refuge de Presset at 2,000 metres. From here, turn left, cross the Ruisseau du Coin stream, and continue toward the shepherd’s hut, Chalet d’alpage de Conchette.

After about 500 metres along the track, descend onto the path leading to Chalet du Coin at 2,137 metres. From here, the next objective is visible ahead: a small V-shaped notch on the ridge between Mont Coin and Roc de la Charbonnière, known as the Col du Coin.

The ascent to Col du Coin begins on grassy slopes and gradually becomes steeper over loose scree, reaching 2,398 metres at the pass. At the top, it is worth pausing quietly and observing the southwest slopes, where marmots are often active.

This entire area is used as summer pasture for the village of Granier, and during the season a large herd of dairy cows grazes here. Their milk is used to produce Beaufort cheese, known for its fruity and delicate flavour, made locally.

From the pass, descend the southwest slope until you reach the track near the Plan-Brunet chalets. From there, a short walk leads to Refuge de la Coire at 2,059 metres, identifiable by its distinctive water trough, where you will spend the night.

Begin the day with a gentle ascent toward Cormet d’Arêches at 2,109 m. From the pass, follow a secondary road that crosses the small plateau and then begins descending north into the Vallon d’Arêches.

At the first sharp bend, look for a path dropping down on the left embankment. This section leads through groves of green alder and grassy meadows that can be muddy in places, before rejoining the road above Lac des Fées at 1,896 m.

Walk along the left side of the lake, cross the main road, and continue descending along the left bank of the stream that drains it until you reach the access road to La Laie. Continue toward the shepherds’ huts, then follow the right bank of the valley northwest.

This section is particularly scenic, crossing several small streams via wooden footbridges and briefly meeting the road at one bend before leaving it again. Further down, the trail crosses the road once more near Chalet du Darbelay, reaching a ford at 1,645 m.

From here, cross the road and the junction below it, then continue descending through meadowland on a wide, comfortable path until you arrive at Lac de Saint-Guérin.

If time allows, the lake offers an accessible educational loop trail focused on hydroelectric power. It is also a popular local picnic area, with numerous places suitable for breakfast or lunch. It is worth allowing extra time here.

A highlight of this section is the narrow suspension bridge in Himalayan style that links both sides of the lake. Cross it, take in the views, and continue along the southern shore, where the circular trail offers plenty of photo opportunities.

Above the lake loop, take the path climbing toward Grand-Mont. Pass the Planey chalets and cross the Marlhonais forest until reaching Chalet des Rognoux at 1,880 m.

From the chalets, continue left uphill and then join the path to the right toward Refuge de l’Alpage. Follow this route to the cable car station.

Turn left (southwest) to reach the base of Tête Rouge (2,100 m), then take the right-hand trail traversing the mountainside toward the small Lac Tournant (2,002 m).

If you did not stop earlier at Lac de Saint-Guérin, this is an ideal place for a break. It is well suited not only for a picnic but also for resting on the grass.

Cross the stream to the west with a gentle ascent. The trail crosses this lively stream several times and then turns north, passing remains of 16th-century miners’ houses linked to the copper mines of Grand-Mont.

To finish, descend left to around 1,800 m. At the junction, ignore the path dropping right toward Chalet des Combettes and take the left trail west toward Grande Combe, leading directly to Refuge des Arolles, known for its wooden terrace overlooking the Beaufortain valley and its cold beer.

Continue west with a gradual ascent along the mountainside, passing above the remains of a ruined hut, until you cross a stream. From there, turn northwest and then north, cross the drainage of the Lacs de Lavouet, and climb to the Col des Lacs at 2,250 m.

Beyond the saddle, the trail descends northwest along the mountainside toward Chalet de l’Aulp-de-Tours at 1,982 m. Note that in early summer this steep descent may still be covered in snow patches, so extra caution is required.

Continue traversing westward to a small lake, then follow the marked path up to the ridge of Roche-Pourrie (“the Rotten Rock”) at 2,050 m. From here begins the long descent into the valley.

The trail drops down the northern slope, winding right and left above the forest of Molliessoulaz, and reaches a clearing with several huts. Continue descending until you reach a dirt road at Les Chappes at 1,550 m.

From there, follow the path along the edge of the forest to a paved road. Walk along it for about 250 metres, then leave it again by descending onto the trail below.

You now enter a dense spruce forest, descending steeply northward until you emerge into a meadow at Les Croix (“the Crosses”) at 1,181 m. Pass the huts on your left and continue downhill through the meadow.

The path becomes a track leading to the Gîte of Molliessoulaz at 950 m. It is worth stopping here to rest under a parasol with a cold local beer or an ice cream from the freezer; food is sometimes available as well.

Cross the road twice to reach the small hamlet itself at 850 m. At the signposted junction pointing toward Les Chappes in one direction and Les Pointières in the other, take the lower path, descend to the road below, and skirt around the hamlet of Le Bourgeois.

After the bend in the road, join the trail that drops steeply through the forest, crossing the road twice more and passing huts with names such as Noira, Épinette, and Boub.

Finally, take the path left along the Doron River. Cross the bridge near the power station and climb back to your finishing point in the village of Queige.

Before taking off your boots and ending the trek, take a moment to notice the steep roofs of the houses in Queige. These were once thatched with locally grown rye straw, and the sharp pitch helped shed rain efficiently. The thatch is gone, but the roof structures remain as a reminder of traditional local architecture.

If you are not too late, you may also find a pizza truck in the village serving excellent pizza.