Tour of the Aubrac Mountains

Keep in mind that some inns and guesthouses close between October and February, so it is highly recommended to book accommodations in advance or contact companies such as La malle postale (see below), which provide logistical support along the route, including transfers to nearby lodging and transportation back to the trail the following day.

La malle postale is a company based in the Aubrac region that specializes in logistical services for hikers, particularly those who prefer not to carry heavy backpacks or who are traveling with children. The company transports larger bags (up to 13 kg) directly to your evening accommodation and can also arrange transfers to and from lodging points along the route when needed.

The burons are traditional shepherd shelters once used to transform summer milk into cheese. Some have since been converted into restaurants or inns, such as Refuge des Rajas — where you will stay on the second night of the trek — serving regional specialties including truffade, aligot, farçou, retortillat, and more.

The drailles are ancient shepherd paths, some of which later evolved into Roman roads and eventually modern routes. Many disappeared over time, but along this trek you will walk several that have survived thanks to the ongoing maintenance of local farmers and herders. These paths are typically lined with dry-stone walls, built by carefully stacking stones without mortar or any binding material. Another trail in the region, the GR60, follows many such routes. They are deeply picturesque and rich in character, reflecting the historic tension between herders and farmers, since the stone walls were originally constructed to protect cultivated land from grazing sheep and cattle. Similar paths can also be found in the neighboring Ardèche region, where they are known as calades and were built for the same purpose.

Laguiole knives are famous worldwide for their exceptional craftsmanship and quality. According to local legend, Napoleon Bonaparte himself granted a group of particularly brave soldiers from the region permission to add his family emblem — the bee — to the locking mechanism of their folding knives as a reward for loyal service. The story is, of course, entirely mythical, since the “bee” first appeared on a knife from the area only in 1908. In reality, this decorative locking element is known among knife makers as the “fly” (mouche), and debate continues to this day over which insect it is actually meant to represent, as it appears in countless forms and designs. It remains a wonderful topic of conversation in any local inn.

You can visit the knife museum in the town of Laguiole and purchase locally crafted knives at very reasonable prices.

It is also well worth sampling the regional cuisine, famous throughout France. Many dishes are based on the excellent semi-hard Laguiole cheese. The first is aligot, a rich mashed potato dish blended with Laguiole cheese. When prepared properly, it is a true delicacy and can even be found in restaurants in Paris.

The second dish, made from the same ingredients — potatoes and Laguiole cheese — but prepared differently, features a generous layer of melted cheese baked over pre-roasted potatoes with plenty of garlic and herbs. This comforting and delicious dish is called retortillat and is served in nearly every restaurant and inn along the trek.

Two other local specialties are truffade, a variation of retortillat with even more cheese and baked rather than roasted potatoes, and farçou, a type of meat and herb fritter. Travelers who avoid pork should note that farçou usually contains pork fat, even when the meat itself is not pork.