Tour of the Glaciers of Vanoise

From here begins your gradual ascent toward the glacier ridge. The first few meters are a bit steep, but once you leave the forest after a few hundred meters, the slope becomes gentler. Walk between the houses and re-enter the woods after a large parking area. 

The trail alternates between small groves and open meadows. To your right rises the distinctive dome of Le Moriond, reaching 2,297 meters. The wide path leads to the first mountain hut along the way, Refuge des Barmettes. This small, picturesque refuge can serve as an ideal overnight stop if you arrive late in Pralognan-la-Vanoise, or simply as a pleasant place to rest for a drink and a snack before the main climb of the day. 

Cross the small bridge over the stream, and from here the ancient path, once used to move cattle and sheep to the high pastures continues gently uphill, bordered by low stone walls on both sides.

About two kilometers beyond Refuge des Barmettes, you will reach a small high valley and one of the trek’s most iconic spots, Lac des Vaches. This shallow lake is crossed by a line of stepping stones that allow you to walk “on the water,” a perfect place for a memorable photo. 

If you happen to be here during the alpine bloom, usually in the first half of July, you may see hundreds of white flowers known in French as “Linaigrette” growing from the lake itself. Continue climbing past Lac Long. Above its southern edge awaits your first overnight stop, Refuge du Col de la Vanoise. From here, you have a magnificent view of the Grande Casse, the highest peak in the range at 3,855 meters. It is important to reserve your spot at the refuge in advance, as camping is not permitted in the surrounding area.

Once you pass them, the Liesse Valley (Liesse) opens up before you, overlooked by the Pointes des Pierres Bruns. The trail then turns sharply south and clings to the mountainside. Continue onward and you will pass the Voûte du Clapier Blanc. Here, the route separates from the GR55 trail that descends into the valley, while its southern variant leads to the “Between Two Waters” hut (Refuge d'Entre Deux Eaux), visible on the ridge ahead. 

The trail continues south, crossing more scree slopes. Note that in this section the path may become faint until you reach Mont de la Para at 2,329 meters. Here you join the GR5, the long-distance trail that runs from the North Sea in Rotterdam to the Mediterranean in Nice. The trail continues roughly at the same elevation, turns west, and passes by the Lozières Lakes (Lozières). 

This is a unique spot that feels almost otherworldly. For those seeking a challenge and a rare photo opportunity, it is worth leaving the main trail and following the Ferran stream (Ferran) upstream from coordinates (45.354662, 6.798950). The stream, though unmarked by a path, leads to a hidden and beautiful lake called Lac de la Roche Ferran. 

This lake is fed directly by a waterfall formed from the melting ice of the Glacier de la Roche Ferran. It is an exceptionally striking and beautiful place, offering a perfect view of the vast Vanoise Glacier. It is also an ideal spot for a picnic. Continue facing the glaciers until you cross the streambed of the Letta (Ruisseau de la Letta) at a convenient point. From here, a gentle ascent begins, with the glaciers to your right and the long, narrow valley gradually unfolding to your left. Breathtaking views accompany you along this path suspended between sky and earth, leading all the way to the Arpont Hut (Refuge de l’Arpont), your second overnight stop on the route.

After a short descent, pass the trail junction at La Loza at an elevation of 2,350 m. From here, a new gentle ascent begins, leading you into a deeper and narrower hollow than the previous one, crossing an impressive scree slope (walk carefully in this area). 

The trail then becomes firmer again, and you will cross the steep channel of the Ruisseau de Villeneuve. This spectacular section of the route is known as “the balcony trail between La Loza and La Turra.” 

After a slightly steep descent, you will reach the trail junction at La Turra at 2,363 m. 

Continue along the same impressive hanging trail overlooking the village of Aussia. The path curves around the gentle ridge of Pointe de Belecôte, and shortly before reaching the Le Djoin junction, you will already spot the dammed lake Plan d’Aval below you.

Once you complete the circuit around the ridge, you will see its larger sibling above it, Plan d’Amont, also held by a dam. 

From here, it is a short walk to the Plan Sec junction, from which a trail climbs to the Plan Sec Hut. Continue on your trail for about another kilometer uphill and pass beneath one of the most beautiful huts in the area, Refuge de la Fournache. You can take a short detour here to sit on its impressive wooden deck overlooking the two dammed lakes below, or push on for one last (and steep!) climb to the finest hut in the area, which is also your overnight stop, Refuge de la Dent Parrachée. Here you also part ways with the GR5 trail, which continues west and then south toward Nice.

From here, the path descends gradually for about two kilometers. After crossing the Ruisseau de Rosoire, the descent becomes a bit steeper for another 2.5 kilometers. Just before reaching a wide trail, you will pass through a small grove. Continue past Alpage de Ritord, a mountain hut belonging to a couple of dairy farmers, Suzanne and Félix Galiz, who keep a small herd of about 40 free-ranging cows. They sell their own excellent cheeses made on-site, including Beaufort AOP “Chalet d’Alpage,” Tomme, and Raclette. It is well worth buying directly from them, especially the Beaufort, which is both delicious and more affordable than in shops. 

 Cross the small bridge over the Doron de Chavière River, and from here you rejoin the GR-55 trail where your journey began. The wide path leads through a beautiful, narrow valley, with the great glaciers of the Vanoise rising to your right and an impressive ridge to your left, its highest point being Aiguille des Corneillets at 3,055 m. 

Shortly after passing beneath the summit of Le Petit Mont Blanc, which rises to 2,677 m, you will enter a lovely forest that guides you toward the outskirts of Pralognan-la-Vanoise, where your adventure began and now comes to an end.