The Vineyards Trail in Piedmont

The trail begins at the bus stop near the square between Via Stura and Via Moglia on the outskirts of Cherasco. If you have time, it is worth visiting this charming town. Beyond its well-known tourist attractions, such as the white Arco del Belvedere built to commemorate the city’s recovery from the plague in 1630, the real gem of Cherasco is a small and beautiful synagogue (no longer in use today, as there is no longer a Jewish community). Visits are possible by guided tour, arranged in advance by phone at +393518767844 or by email at info@cherasco1547.org. The synagogue was built in the 18th century in Baroque style, and all its windows face an inner courtyard so that the sounds of prayer would not be heard in the street, out of fear of local hostility. From the bus stop, carefully cross the square to Via Moglia and continue east through an industrial area. In less than a kilometer you will reach Via La Morra, after crossing the bridge over the rushing Tanaro River, which you will encounter again only on the last day of the journey. From here the adventure truly begins, as you leave the industrial zone behind and follow a small road that starts to wind gently among the vineyards. The path leads deeper into the countryside, passing through fields and vineyards, farms, and narrow trails. You will reach the outskirts of the picturesque village of La Morra about 9 kilometers from the bridge you crossed. In town, you can enjoy the breathtaking view over the entire Langhe region spread out below, as well as visit the beautiful church of Madonna delle Grazie. There are several good accommodation options in La Morra, mainly boutique hotels and large farmhouses converted into comfortable B&Bs.

From La Morra, walk down among the vineyards for about two kilometers until you reach the Tredberri winery. From there, continue downhill, then climb the small hill topped by the chapel delle Brunate, and pass through Cerequio, a beautiful guesthouse nestled in the heart of the vineyards. After about ten kilometers, make a stop in Barolo. There you can find a place to eat and restock, but don’t miss visiting the magnificent castle overlooking the surrounding vineyards. The castle has a central square tower flanked by cylindrical turrets that are integrated into the defensive walls rather than placed at the corners as in most castles. As a result, its layout is slightly irregular. Its relatively uniform appearance today is largely due to an eclectic 19th-century renovation carried out when the building was converted into an educational institution. After extensive restoration, it has become a fascinating wine museum that is absolutely worth a visit. After visiting the castle and museum, and perhaps enjoying a good lunch at one of the trattorias, head south out of Barolo, cross the stream, and climb north through a small woodland until you reach the top of a lovely hill with vineyards sloping down on both sides. Continue along the path southward, passing the Comba Boschetti winery. Follow the wide trail as it climbs gently, with beautiful vineyard views to your right and woodland to your left. Pass the San Giovanni farm, and from there the path turns west (right) before descending south again through a pleasant grove for just under a kilometer. From that point, the route continues almost straight until Monforte d’Alba, a picturesque and typical village filled with charming trattorias, restaurants, comfortable accommodation options, and stunning views over the surrounding vineyards.

Today begins with a gentle ascent toward the northeastern edge of the town. Walk along the narrow Via Bava Beccaris road until Monforte d’Alba is behind you. The first two kilometers follow a small secondary road. Watch out for cars and walk facing the traffic so drivers can see you from a distance. In some places there are no shoulders, so take extra care. Pass the small helipad on your right and continue as the view opens southward over the surrounding vineyards. Pay attention to the trail signs along the roadside. In this area, your markings are red and white, sometimes accompanied by the number 308. The path turns sharply right into a wooded area after the Elio Grasso estate. After a short, somewhat steep climb to the edge of the forest, the trail descends again among the vineyards, winding between them. Make sure to follow trail 308A, which becomes trail 304 as it leads you through the first houses of the village of Serralunga d’Alba and its stunning 14th‑century castle. The narrow alleys of this village spiral upward toward the castle. It is well worth a visit and also a pleasant spot to stop for a morning coffee. From the castle, rejoin trail 304 heading west, then continue on 304B, which winds down through the vineyards to the stream valley. From there, walk about half a kilometer to a T‑junction with a secondary road. Take trail 308 north (to the right) and after about two kilometers among the vineyards you will reach your overnight stop, Castiglione Falletto. Here you will find several small restaurants, trattorias, and boutique hotels where you can stay. There is also a lovely castle, less imposing than the one in Serralunga d’Alba, but it is privately owned and not open to visitors.

Head east along trail no. 308 through the vineyards until it joins a secondary road. The road will lead you to the entrance of a modern winery called Villadoria. Do not go up the access road, instead turn right at the small square and take the path south of the stone wall surrounding the winery. The path climbs the hill toward a manor house and continues beyond it until you reach a rough road that connects to the SP125. Follow it for about 200 meters to the small village of Sorano. Next to the bus stop you will see a sign pointing toward the village (trail no. 304). Continue along it, through and out of Sorano, walking along the ridge of the hill with vineyard terraces on both sides. After passing the farmhouses of Casina Rosa, the trail turns sharply northwest (to the right) and begins a somewhat steep descent of about half a kilometer into the valley. Continue along this beautiful path lined with orchards on both sides until you reach the main road SP130. Follow it for about half a kilometer until you reach a T-junction branching north (to your right) just after a large sign reading “Grinzane Cavour.” The trail leads north to the impressive 14th-century castle of Grinzane Cavour, the same castle you saw rising on the hill to your right as you walked along the road. The castle is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and can be visited. It houses an interesting ethnological museum with exhibits about local life, as well as a wine shop, café, and restaurant. There are also several good options for lunch in the area. From the castle, take trail no. 302 northwest, passing through orchards and vineyards. Cross the industrial area of Piana Gallo for about half a kilometer, then continue and climb up to the Ceretto vineyard. A visit to the winery is highly recommended (guided tours of one to two hours with tastings of at least four types of wine, costing 50–200 euros per person depending on the wines and length of the visit). Be careful not to drink too much, as from there you still have about 4 kilometers to walk northeast on a pleasant route leading to the beautiful town of Alba, the world capital of the white truffle, known for its excellent restaurants and luxurious accommodation options.

Head east along Via Vida and cross the large square with the statue of the boy holding a ball until you reach the small lawn opposite the Eni gas station on the edge of town. There you will find two information boards, a map, and a red-and-white trail sign pointing east. Turn and continue on trail no. 324. At first, the path follows the sidewalk along road SP3. Pass a second roundabout and descend along Viale Cherasca. Cross the railway tracks and continue on Via Barbaresco, which runs alongside them. The road ends at a large iron gate, next to which you will see a small path, the Sentiero delle Rocche, winding between houses. Follow it until you meet road SP3 again at a bend. There you will notice a sign for trail no. 324 toward Barbaresco. Follow this trail uphill between the vineyards on your right and the woodland on your left, then descend until you reach the banks of the Tanaro River, which you left behind at the start of the first day. The trail rises and falls, following the course of the wide river flowing to your left, while vineyards stretch out to your right, until after about an hour and forty minutes you arrive at the village of Barbaresco, a beautiful place with a Baroque-style church and an excellent spot for brunch or a coffee break if you skipped breakfast in Alba. Continue east from the village, leaving the river behind in favor of the vineyard-covered hills. A little over a kilometer farther on, join trail no. 313A, climbing a series of vineyard-covered hills until you reach Neive, one of the most picturesque villages in northern Italy. Here you will find a variety of small restaurants, trattorias, pizzerias, and cafés, a perfect place for lunch. From here, continue downhill to the train station, which will take you back to Turin.